Last September a buyer from Edison, New Jersey messaged our desk about restocking kurtis before Diwali. Sea freight had effectively cut off three weeks earlier. She air-freighted a small lot anyway and handed a fat slice of her season's margin to the courier. That is how most US boutique owners learn the export calendar, and most only need the lesson once.
What US boutiques actually order
The mix changes with the American season more than first-time buyers expect. From April to September, volume sits in cotton: voile, cambric and mulmul between 90 and 140 GSM, printed, machine washable, forgiving of a school run and an office. From October, the basket shifts to viscose and cotton-viscose blends at 160 to 220 GSM, full sleeves, heavier dupattas, richer print grounds. Prints carry the volume; embroidery carries the margin. In our experience a healthy first order runs roughly seven printed pieces for every three embroidered. Prints move straight off the rack, while embroidery needs a good mannequin and a sales story.
Silhouettes matter less than fit intent. Straight and A-line kurtis are the daily staples on US racks; anarkalis sell into the occasion calendar (weddings, Diwali dinners, temple events). Length is where first-timers trip. US customers are taller on average and read a 38-inch kurti as a tunic, not a dress. Order 44 to 48 inches for your mainline and the "too short" returns mostly disappear.
Sizing and grading for the US customer
An Indian size M is closer to a US XS-S on the bust, and domestic Indian grading cuts differently through the armhole. When we run export programmes for US buyers, we grade on a two-inch bust step from 34 to 46 inches, XS through 3XL, with depth in M to XXL because that is where the American curve centres. Three-quarter sleeves sell all year. Short sleeves sell only in high summer, and sleeveless kurtis mostly gather dust outside bridal-party contexts.
If your POS data starts showing returns, check whether the pattern is sizing before you blame the supplier. Nine times out of ten it is a grading mismatch, not sewing.
MOQ, sampling and how a first order comes together
Surat production runs on minimums per design per colour, not per order. A workable first order usually looks like 8 to 12 designs across 3 to 4 colour ways, each in a full size run, landing in the low hundreds of pieces total. You can often combine designs on shared fabric grounds to reach friendlier minimums. Ask early, because it is much easier to plan that on our side than to discover it after cutting.
Sampling takes 7 to 10 days to cut and finish, plus 3 to 5 days by courier. Order samples in the middle of your intended size run rather than a sample-size small, because drape and bust fit tell you different things. We adjust sample charges against the first bulk order for serious buyers. Payment structure on first orders is typically an advance with the balance against documents; larger repeat programmes move to letters of credit. Neither side should improvise this.
One honest admission: air freight rarely makes sense for first orders. Use it to refill proven sellers mid-season when the maths is obvious, the way our Edison buyer did with her eyes open.
Sea freight from Surat: ports, cartons and paperwork
Surat sits close to three container gateways: Hazira, Mundra and Nhava Sheva. Hazira is literally in our backyard but has fewer direct sailings, so most of our US cargo moves by road to Mundra or Nhava Sheva for the weekly services. Transit runs roughly three weeks port to port to the West Coast and four-plus to New York or New Jersey, then customs and inland haulage add the rest. Six to eight weeks door to door is the realistic planning number.
Folded, poly-packed kurtis run 40 to 60 pieces per carton with a small cube, which makes this one of the friendliest categories for LCL shipments. As a rough rule, below about 15 CBM you are better in a shared container than paying for a full one. Two customs notes genuinely matter here. Your broker must file the ISF (the 10+2) no later than 24 hours before the vessel loads, and late filings are a fast way to eat penalties. And kurtis sit in a classification grey zone between "dress" and "other garment" headings, where cotton and polyester lines can land in different duty places. Settle both with your broker before you order, not after the goods are floating.
The US buying calendar, worked backwards from Diwali
The whole year hangs off a handful of dates, and every one of them has a dispatch deadline that sits two or three months earlier:
- Diwali (October or November): dispatch by end of July. East Coast delivery in August gives you shelf time before the rush.
- festive and garba-adjacent kurtis dispatch by mid-July. Nine nights of retail move in three weeks of shelf life.
What to check before you wire the balance
Do your fabric checks before the balance payment, not after delivery. Cut a 10 by 10 cm swatch and weigh it; grams multiplied by 100 gives you GSM, and a jeweller's scale handles the small weights better than a kitchen one. Run a rub test with a damp white cloth along the print. Count stitches per inch at the armhole and side seams; export-grade sewing runs around 10 to 12. Ask whether the cotton is pre-shrunk, and if it is not, print wash-care cards anyway, because first-wash complaints come back as refunds regardless of whose fault the shrinkage is.
For anything meaningful, ask for a video inspection of the packed cartons before dispatch. Some buyers also hire a third-party inspector in Surat for a day on larger first orders. A modest outlay for a lot of peace of mind.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the minimum order for kurtis from India?
Minimums are set per design per colour, usually in the dozens rather than the hundreds. Most first orders we run land between 200 and 500 pieces total across a dozen designs. Consolidating designs on shared fabric grounds is the standard trick that keeps a small order viable.
How long does it take to import kurtis from India to the USA?
Production runs 30 to 45 days after design lock, sea freight three to five weeks port to port, and customs plus inland adds the rest. Plan on six to eight weeks door to door. Air freight takes three to five days but is a refill tool, not a first-order strategy.
Do I need an import licence to buy kurtis from India?
There is no general import licence for garments. You need a US business entity, a customs broker to file the entry and ISF, and a settled HTS classification. On our side we handle export clearance along with the commercial invoice, packing list and certificate of origin.
Should my first order be printed or embroidered kurtis?
Both, in a deliberate ratio. Prints turn quickly and carry your volume; embroidery carries your margin and photographs better for online selling. Roughly 70/30 print to embroidery is where most healthy first orders land, and you can sharpen it after one season of sell-through data.
How do I handle kurti sizing for US customers?
Grade up from Indian domestic sizing. Export runs work on two-inch bust steps from 34 to 46 inches, with depth in M to XXL. Expect customers to size up for teens, and expect 44 to 48 inch lengths to outsell shorter cuts comfortably.
Can I get samples before committing to bulk?
Yes. Sampling takes 7 to 10 days plus courier time, and we adjust sample charges against the first bulk order. Order samples in a mid-range size on the actual fabric ground you intend to buy, since drape varies heavily between voile, cambric and viscose.
If you are building a kurti programme for the coming US season, send us the months you are buying for and we will work the calendar backwards with you. Message us on WhatsApp or through the enquiry form with your store location and target festivals. We keep sample sets ready for serious buyers and are happy to walk you through fabrics and prints on a video call before anything goes into production.
Sourcing ethnic wear for your business?
Our export team shares catalogues, MOQ and pricing tailored to your market — response within one business day.
